Roland JV-1000 Workstation Red Epoxy Strikes Again!

Roland JV-1000 Workstation
Roland JV-1000 Workstation

Today I brought home an old vintage Roland JV-1000 workstation given to me free by a guy at a local second hand shop. The keys were leaking the infamous red epoxy from the weights mounted underneath the keys. The sales clerk didn’t know what to do with it, but remembered I took the Roland XP-80 off his hands a while back with the same problem. I gladly accepted the keyboard and after removing the keys at home I found the red epoxy leak to be luckily in it’s early stages. This means that I really only have to clean the keys, remove and re-glue the weights, and clean a bit of epoxy off the metal chasis. No red epoxy was found on the felt strip or on any of the PCB board components. In about a week I should have it up and running as good as new. Inside the Roland JV-1000, I also discovered it was equipped with the VE-GS1 Voice Expander card which increases the polyphony and multitimbral parts available for sequencing.

Overall with the exception of the epoxy key issue, the Roland JV-1000 is in near mint condition. There are no scratches, dings, or any bad markings on the keyboard. I powered it up before I removed the keys and the everything seemed to work perfectly, so I’d say it was a pretty good day today. It’s amazing how this morning I had no idea I would be walking into a store and walking out with a free Roland JV-1000 Workstation. You never know what you’re going to find in these used music shops here in Japan.


I successfully removed the keys and soaked them in a solution bought in Japan called Magic Cleaner. It’s orange scented and after a couple of days it dissolves the epoxy without causing any damage at all to the keys or other parts of the key bed. I used the exact same stuff with my Roland XP-80 so it’s pretty much my go to solution for cleaning the red epoxy. I then cement the weights back onto the plastic keys. I also use another super glue to seal the grooves around the weights to ensure they stay in and nothing else gets out. Finally I have this super ultra thin felt that I cut strips and layer over the original. It’s super thin so it doesn’t cause any noticeable difference in the action. I only layer the felt to cover up any epoxy spots to avoid sticking. It works really well. I can use white for the top and green for the bottom if necessary. Finally I put everything back together and use Super Lube PFTE grease for the areas that require grease or where I removed it. Once put back together, everything works good as new.

Here’s a quick video I found on Youtube of someone giving the Roland JV-1000 a quick demo.

11 thoughts on “Roland JV-1000 Workstation Red Epoxy Strikes Again!

  1. I have the same problem with this red glue. What are the basic ingredients of the MAGIC CLEANER? I figure I can’t get it here in Australia but I’m sure there would be a similar product available that would work the same.

    1. Hello Gavan. I’m not sure the exact ingredients, but I’ll check. Likely it’s in Japanese and I’ll have to find out the equivalent in English. I do know that this Magic Cleaner is primarily used to clean ovens and stove tops. You use it with a rough pad to clean up all the difficult stuff from inside the oven. I have found if a key for example is fully submerged in the stuff, it will completely dissolve the epoxy in less than a day. It costs about $2 dollar a bottle and had to buy four in order to soak all of the keys. It works very well and has a nice orange scent like dish soap. It’s a strong smell, but not distracting, but rather fresh…laugh. I’ll try to take a photo of the bottle and post it here shortly. Thanks! – Jim

      Here is a photo of the exact stuff I use here in Jaapn.

      Japan Magic Cleaner

      1. Thanks Jim. I glad someone else has the same red epoxy problem with their JV-1000 that I have with mine. It’s only been doing it in the last 2 or 3 years. I’ve also sent an email to ROLAND support to see what they suggest as cleaners/replacement epoxy glue as well.

      2. Keith

        Hi Jim,

        Inhave recently purchased a jv1000 stricken with the red glue problem as well.

        I’m looking to get the Kao Magic Cleaner as you mentioned. May I know if you soaked them undiluted or mixed with water? Does all the red epoxy melt away and removes the metal weights in the process?

        I’m considering the option of cleaning every key with isopropyl alcohol and resealing the red epoxy with new epoxy, or to remove all the red epoxy (with your method) and re-gluing them with new epoxy glue.

        Please advise.


  2. Bobby Stovek

    Hi Jim I was just wondering if I should buy this synthesizer, it’s for sale at the thrift store down the street for only $55 and I think it may have the same problem as the one you have, it has what looks like dried up syrup all over the keys and most of them are stuck together, I was just wondering if I have a good chance at fixing it considering it’s a great instrument and for that price I’m sure I can’t go wrong.

    1. Yes! That is a good price. If you clean the red epoxy it should be as good ad new. Note it should power up even with the epoxy problem. You just won’t be able to play it unless you midi up an external keyboard.

  3. Dale

    Like your self Im also a keyboardist, guitarist “mosrites forever” and Electroinc Design engineer. Ive repaired about 125 these keyboards in the past 7 years everything from the JD, JX XP and even some RD series with the same problem with the water soluble epoxy glue. Here the states
    the best cleaner to use that doent attack the plastic is a solution called “Awesome” found at most
    general stores, Dollar stores, etc.This solution is yellow in color part number 22429 64022,
    made in Ca by Awesome products 800-482-2875. Now like you said just clean the glue off the keys, this doesnt stop the problem, any place that has high humidity will cause this glue to break down and start to run again. Two solutions 1. you need to take the remaining keys that havent started to have the glue break down and seal the glue, you must warm the keys to drive what moisture might be present under the weights. Once that is done apply a coat of clear
    nail polish covering the exposed surface of the glue, this will prevent water (moisture) from
    reentering the key. 2. when you store any keyboard for a extended period of time its always
    good idea to put a dessicant bag in with the instrument (they sells at the Dollar stores as a clothes dryer bag to hang in the closet..these can also be purchased from most places that sell boxes (there also used to prevent mold and mildew). For those of you that have a major glue
    problems I posted a procedure how completely remove and restore on the sound and sound

  4. microbug

    Strange. The keybed in JV-1000 and XP-80 is a Matsushita (Panasonic) SK-8 type, whereas the keybed mainly known for the Red Glue Problem is the SK-7, found in U-20, D-70, JD-800 and Rhodes Model 660/760.

    If the SK-8 also has the Red Glue, owners of all this keyboard synths should check their keybeds:


    JV-35, JV-50 and XP-50 may be different, since they use the SK-8L.

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